If you find a junonia shell on Sanibel Island you make the front page of the local newspaper. You'll also become headline news if you get your hands on a prized lion paw.
Shelling is a serious business on this barrier island on the Gulf of Mexico just offshore of Fort Myers. The island's white, sugary beaches are blanketed in an array of 400 different species of shells: conch, lightning whelks, cockle, scallops, murex, tulips, olives, coquinas. Yet avid seekers are really only looking for the twisted cone shell with giraffe-like spots, the junonia, which is considered a prized find.
This Manhattan-size island is one of the best places in the world for shelling because of its geography. The northern tip swoops northward into the gulf and its beaches catch shells as if it were a fish net. shells and its east-west torque
We head for Bowman's Beach on the north side of the island. At the visitor center, we're told this is one of the island's most secluded beaches but on the day we visit in the midst of spring break it's packed with people walking up and down the beach along the trail of shell debris. Some were in the water holding nets, trying to trap any treasures carried in by the waves. Despite the mad rush, my kids still walk with a robber baron's hoard of shells--although no junonia. Those are rare.
To learn more about shells, we head for the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum, where exhibit room features a dizzying array of shells from all over the world: cuban snails that look as if they were painted; cowries the size of a man's fist; bright yellow and purple scallops; a conch that looks like a scorpion; and the world's largest horse conch. The horse conch is the largest shelled mollusk found in the Atlantic Ocean, and it's the Florida State Shell.
We catch a demonstration on how to find shells--something we wish we had done before going shelling. We learn that mornings after storms are the best and the docent tells us about a little girl on the island who recently found junonia. "An adult on the beach found a lion paw that day and tried to convince her to trade but she wouldn't," the docent said.
My daughter wants to head back for Bowman's Beach to find her own junonia but unfortunately, we have a long drive to make that afternoon and must move on.
The Best Western Plus Beach Resort sits right on the beach, steps from southern Florida's pretty pale green waters. It's the sort of place where you could easily spend a week, walking the sugary white sand beach in the morning, playing a game of shuffle board in the afternoon, and falling asleep every night to the sound of the crashing waves.
Every room has its own private balcony overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, where dolphins frolic in the surf, kite boarders jump over waves, and fiery sunsets turn the water bright orange and red.
The rooms are light and airy, and the beds are comfy and covered with soft white comforters. Many rooms are equipped with small kitchens, and if you're traveling with kids, you can book a two-room suite.
The hotel is located in Fort Myers Beach on the north end of Estero Island; the airport in Fort Myers is only 45 minutes away.
The two-story hotel is surrounded by a jungle of palm trees, ferns, and hibiscus. Skinny pathways wind through the vegetation and lead to the two pretty swimming pools and hot tubs. Breakfast is served outside from a grass-roofed hut. And kids have a blast hitting around balls at the miniature golf course.
You could stay at the hotel all day, or walk three-quarters-of-a-mile to the pristine, white sand beach. Downtown Naples, with its shops and restaurants, is only about two miles from the hotel.
From the Everglades, we drove to Naples, Fl. This luxurious beach resort, two hours west of Miami, sits on the Gulf of Mexico. It's ritzy and glitzy and known as a vacation spot for wealthy Midwesterners. The waterfront is lined with over-the-top mansions and beach-goers wear fine linen cover ups and flip-flops studded with gems.
There's actually a lot to do here--like go to the zoo or the botanical garden or hop on a boat tour that'll take you into the swamps to see manatees. But we did none of that. The sparkling white beach that stretched along the coast for miles was far too tempting; the bathtub warm water in the most beautiful pale green color too inviting. And so we spent nearly an entire day walking the beach and bobbing in the water, and we didn't leave until we saw the sun set.
It's easy to disregard the Everglades. If you drive quickly through this marshy swath of land that stretches across Florida's most southern tip, you'll only see expansive fields of long, wispy grass. After awhile, your children are likely to tell you the scenery outside is boring.
But if you take your time to stop along your drive, walk the boardwalks and bike the trails, you'll find that this massive watershed is crawling with all sorts of critters, big and small.
We drove into the park from Miami along Highway 41, the main road that cuts directly through the park, slicing it in half. For the first several miles, you pass touristy spots advertising air boat rides and the opportunity to see alligators. We drove by those and headed for Everglades National Park and pulled off the road at Shark Valley Visitor Center.
As soon as we drove into the parking lot, we noticed a group of people gathered under a tree, their cameras pointed upward. In a huge nest, a mother owl stood guard over a white fluffy baby that looked like a stuffed animal. "Oh! It's so cute! I want to hug it" my daughter squealed. And that's basically how our day at Shark Valley went. Everywhere we turned we saw wildlife.
Right next to the visitor center, the swampy slough teemed with dopey-looking gar fish floating near the top of the water. An anhinga, a tall wiry black bird, dove into the water and caught one of the fish. After she devoured her meal, she let out a loud shriek. A massive alligator lounging in the water was completely. Oh! And there was another one, and another, and another. When my daughter counted five, she started crawling up me as if I were a tree. "Mommy, I want to go back to the car!"
And then there were the butterflies. The air was thick with them. They fluttered through the air before landing on hot pink thistles that bloomed everywhere, spewing white cotton fluff, spreading their seed. One monarch nearly landed on my daughter's wrist. "Oh Mommy! It's so pretty."
The Everglades stretch 100 miles across southern Florida—a mosaic of saw-grass prairie, cypress swamps, mangrove jungles, tropical hardwood hammock forests, and thousands of tiny islands. Some 700 plant and 300 bird species and the endangered manatee, crocodile, and Florida panther all call this swampy place home. The delicate ecosystem is shrinking and originally ran all the way to Orlando. It's a water-dependent environment and southern Florida is diverting more and more water to land development and farms.
In the visitor center, park ranger Eric Riordan talked about the disappearing habitat and how it's affecting the wildlife. I asked if there were areas where we could see flamingos. As a child, I remember seeing photographs in books of the pink feathered flocks blanketing southern Florida beaches, and I hoped to see something similar. "The Flamingo habitat is gone," Riordan said. "You very rarely see the birds. The Everglades are disappearing. The water is disappearing. That's why we need to fight hard to save this place."
We decided to explore the Everglades on bikes. At Shark Valley, a 15-mile loop trail takes you into the heart of the park, and you can rent bikes and helmets for $7.50 an hour. A tram ride also takes you along the same path.
The path is flat--yet our kids tired out after six miles. It cuts through a slough filled with lily pads the size of frying pans, fuzzy cat tails, red-bellied turtles, and alligators, lots and lots of alligators.
Along the way we passed by at least two dozen. Most sat lifeless in the water yet a few were swimming around--and one jumped right when my daughter was off her bike adjusting her helmet. We asked a ranger if the alligators ever bothered visitors. He said the park had only one incidence when a young boy was riding his bike and fell into the slough directly onto the alligator. The gator clamped down on the boy with his jaws, the mom jumped in the water and scared the animal off. A helicopter swooped in and took the boy to the hospital and he walked away. In other words, you only need to worry if you actually jump on top of an alligator.
At the end of our ride, we passed a mother gator and her 20 little babies. Most gators give birth to 20 to 50 babies yet on average two survive. Most are devoured by the father and older siblings. My son wanted to take one of the babies home, but I made sure that didn't happen. The only thing we took home with us were lots of photographs and you can see those in the slideshow below.
In a modest suburban Miami neighborhood with palm-lined streets, Havana Miami dishes up down-home, traditional Cuban food. It's an old-school sort of place with white tablecloths and waiters wearing collared shirts and teal green cumberbunds and bow ties, looking as if they were dressed for an 80s high school prom. Colorful oil paintings depicting the Cuban revolution hang on the walls, and a giant tank filled with tropical fish sits in the center of the dining room.
The menu is staggering with six pages of fine print. About half of the dishes are random selections from around the world--Peruvian ceviche, chicken cordon bleu, Hawaiian ham steak. Ask your waiter to direct you to the Cuban fare: oxtail stew, green plantain soup, Cuban sandwiches.
We ordered the Vaca Frita, a flat pancake of crispy fried beef sprinkled with lime juice (above); and the Carne Asada, tender chunks of beef in a spicy tomato sauce. Each entree came with a side of buttery rice, mashed black beans, and sweet fried plantains. We heard that the flan is delicious but the portions were so generous that we skipped on dessert.
The stylish Best Western Miami International Airport is just minutes from the airport and 20 minutes from the city. It's one of the hotel group's premier properties with modern decor, plush bedding, and 42-inch screens in all rooms. A hot breakfast, wi-fi, and rides to and from the airport are all complimentary.
The property has a hip, modern vibe--dance music plays in the lobby where a white, wavy panel runs behind the sleek, marble front desk. It offers just the sort of energetic environment that our family needed when we checked in at 1:30 a.m. after a delayed flight.
My kids especially liked the pretty outdoor pool where guests can soak up the Florida sun in comfortable lounge chairs. My husband appreciated the well-equipped fitness center where he got in a quick work-out. And I was just so happy to fall into a comfy bed piled high with soft bedding and get a good night's sleep in a thick-walled hotel with quiet rooms.
Our trip to Miami was anything but smooth. I knew from the moment that we went through airport security and the TSA agent alerted me that my driver's license was expiring in three days that we faced a difficult day. But I never expected the emergency landing.
We were about an hour into the flight when a flight attendant asked if any doctors were on board. I looked behind me and about 10 rows back a man was convulsing in his seat.
Four men--the doctors who would save the day!--threw open the curtains from business and first class and rushed back to the passenger who was having a seizure. One doctor screamed out, "Get me a medical kid!"
A flight attendant frantically raced to the back holding the kit, the co-pilot trailing behind. The co-pilot talked with one of the doctor's and ran to the front of the aircraft. Minutes later, the pilot made an announcement that we were turning around and landing in Los Angeles. All the passengers seemed to sigh in frustration in unison: "Uhuuuhu...."
And the drama continued: The landing was fast and furious. The plane screeched as it sped down the runway, the brakes not seeming to do their job. We were all thrown forward in our seats, and when the plane finally stopped, flung backward. Turns out the plane was carrying more fuel than recommended because the fuel tanks at the Miami Airport blew up the day before. Re-fueling in Miami was no longer an option so planes had to carry enough fuel for round-trip flights. The pilot wanted our brakes checked.
I don't know how long we were on the ground in Los Angeles but our five-hour flight to Miami turned into an eight hour one--actually not so bad compared to many other horror stories.
It was midnight when we landed. The children were exhausted. My son could barely hold his eyes open. My daughter was whining about being hungry and wanting dinner.
But dinner wasn't in the cards as we faced a long line at Budget Rental Car, and it took an hour to get a car.
We finally pulled up to our hotel, the Best Western Premier Miami International Airport. We relived to finally reach our destination, and all I could think about was falling into bed. We quickly got our keys and loaded our luggage into the elevator when the kids asked, "What are we having for dinner?"
It was late. There was no way we were pilling into the car and finding a restaurant. At this point, sleep was what the kids needed most. Overtired and cranky, my son broke out into tears. "No dinner! We have to eat dinner!"
A cute 20-something was also in the elevator. "I've got some watermelon in my room. What room are you in? I'll bring it by."
I gave him our room number; a mom knows when she can trust someone. Plus, I figured he'd never come by. He'd go back to his room where his girlfriend was probably waiting and forget about my screaming children. But he did find us. He brought the kids two huge slices--and they devoured them as if they hadn't eaten in days. And then they went to bed and were asleep within five minutes.
Has a fellow traveler ever helped you out in a bind?
American kids lag in science. A 2009 report put out by the National Center for Education Statistics found that U.S. students trailed behind children in industrialized Asian and European countries such as Canada, Japan and the Czech Republic.
My 8-year-old daughter didn't have a single science lesson during the first half of second grade. Her teacher decided that he didn't have enough time to fit it into the day. That teacher is gone and a new one has stepped in and she has found time for a weekly science lesson. Now my daughter looks forward to Friday afternoons when the kids do things such us make their own musical instruments to learn about vibration and sound.
In fact, it's science that interests my kids most when it comes to learning. They want to know why hot lava spews out of volcanoes, beluga whales like icy cold water, and flowers come in a rainbow of colors. They have hundreds of questions about the world and how it works.
And so we've decided to incorporate some learning into our spring break road-trip along the Gulf of Mexico.
We're starting in Miami, tracing the edge of the Golf to Fort Walton in north Florida. We'll be covering 700 miles in eight days. We plan to focus on marine ecosystems. The kids are only 6 and 8 so our lessons will be simple. They'd like to learn how beach sand is made. They want to know more about the oil spill and how it's being cleaned up. My son wants to see an alligator. I'd like to see a manatee. And my husband, whose job is to restore rivers, is looking forward to visiting Everglades National Park.
Our lesson plan doesn't include drills or dittos or tests or homework--after all, this is meant to be a vacation. But we will take a little more time to talk with park rangers, read interpretive signs, and seek out attractions that offer a fun educational experience over pure amusement--i.e., a state park over a theme park. We hope that the kids will be interested and excited and won't even notice that mom and dad are sneaking in some learning while we're traveling.
What do you think? Is it possible to have fun and learn while on vacation?
It was cold, wet and downright dreary in London. The wintry weather made for a charming Christmas, but once the tree was stripped of its ornaments and thrown on the sidewalk and all holiday cheer had disappeared, we were ready for a break from the cold.
We were ready for balmy weather, soft sand, sparkling waters, and palm trees. We were ready to trade the snow boots in for flip-flops, the heavy jackets in for shorts and swim suits.
Where should we go? Italy? No, temps only get as high as 60 degrees in the summer. Barcelona? No, their winters are gray and drizzly. Africa? We have two kids, ages 6 and 7, and weren't ready for something that exotic. How about the Canary Islands? Those Spanish Islands off the coast of Africa, only a four-hour flight from London.
I tracked down cheap flights on Monarch, a charter airline. Only $200 round trip.
We flew out of Gatwick into Tenerife. It was easy to hop on the Gatwick Express train at Victoria Station and we were at the airport within 30 minutes.
Before we knew it, we had left the snow behind and walked out of the Tenerife Airport onto a tropical island where the air smelled of sweet plumeria.
Tenerife is a touristy place--and most travelers are picked up at the airport in big tourist buses.
We decided to do things a little differently and rented a car.
We traced the island's arid eastern coastline built up with resorts, crossed over to the northern coast and by the time night fell and the sea was aglow with the lights of fishing boats, we rolled into Garichico. We quickly got lost in the village's maze of skinny cobblestone streets, before finally stumbling on the Gara Hotel.
The innkeeper Sonia greeted us with hugs and kisses and her warm, friendly spirit that's typical of people in the Canary Islands. Sonia and my kids became fast friends.
The next morning we woke to a blue skies and views of the turquoise see from the Gara Hotel's veranda.
Garichico sits in the fertile lowlands of Tenerife's northwest tip that's known as the island's "best kept secret." Here you won't find big, fancy resorts or crowded beaches. Rather, you'll stumble upon tiny villages, banana orchards, and a circuit of hiking trails that take you in the mountains where you can take in views of turquoise waters.
The best place to make a home base for exploring this area is Garichico, that's known for its churches dating back to the 1500s, restaurants serving freshly grilled fish on outdoor patios, and coastal sea water swimming pools hewn from volcanic rock.
On our first morning we walk the sea water rock pools created naturally by the lava rock formations. The sun is shining, yet the water isn't warm enough for swimming. In summer, we here the pools are filled with people; we decided that we must return then.
We explore the village and the kids have fun running through the alleyways.
We stumble upon the town square with palm trees and a beautiful old bell tower and church dating back to the 1500s.
Hungry, we stop for lunch at Aristides, a Spanish restaurant with an outdoor terrace right next to the square. We order typical Canarian dishes such as small boiled potatoes served with a cilantro sauce, grilled goat cheese, and a squid stew.
Is Spain too cold in the summer? Is Hawaii more expensive in the winter? When are the rains in Southeast Asia? Travelers often have questions around when's the best time to visit particular destinations.
You could wander the Internet for answers, or you could check out a new comprehensive resource from freeshipping.org that tells you when the high and low seasons are in 70 popular destinations. Here's a sampling of a few of the thoughtful write-ups that shed light on weather and prices.
Bora Bora, French Polynesia Costly: June to August Less Expensive: April and May Summer means hot weather and humid, rainy conditions. The weather is more comfortable in April and May than during the height of summer. The humidity isn't as prevalent, and the summer rains have dissipated. Best of all, as the crowds have not yet arrived, you'll enjoy uncrowded resorts, low season rates and an excellent chance of upgrades.
Ireland Costly: July and August Less Expensive: April to June and September to October The Emerald Isle is known for its rain, so you can expect a certain amount of damp at any time of the year. The weather is likely to be at least as good in May, June and September as in the summer months and hotels are less busy. Spring flowers are at their best in April and May, and October offers a frugal fan's choice of free arts festivals.
Portland, Oregon Costly: Mid-May to October Less Expensive: January to March The Pacific Northwest sees its fair share of rain, but the most popular time to visit is during the summer when braniacs take a break and outdoor festivals are everywhere. Winter is the least expensive time, with fewer crowds and more availability. Second cheapest are the spring and fall shoulder seasons, when the weather is cooler and schools are in session.
Cheapflights.com is celebrating the day by offering travels a free beer lover's guide to European destinations.
The guide offers the lowdown on beer in six countries: Austria, France, Germany, Great Britain, Ireland and Spain.
For example, in Spain you should look for Cerveza Negra, a dark, lightly hopped lager similar to those from Munich, which contains 5.5 percent alcohol. In Austria, you might find Dunkel, a dark, sweet lager weighing containing 5.5 percent alcohol content with hints of spice.
Europe is home to a whopping 2300 plus breweries. These range from long established, internationally known majors to smaller regional producers of specialist brews. Undoubtedly, Europe will have a beer to suit every taste, and not surprisingly, it boasts 9 of the world’s 10 countries with the highest beer consumption per capita.
Over spring break, our family is traveling across the country to Florida in search of sun. Our plan is to fly into Miami and then trace the edge of the Gulf Coast, finishing our trip in Fort Walton.
When I first started mapping out our trip two months ago, I checked flights from San Francisco to Miami. I remember seeing a $200 flight. When my trip plans were finally confirmed last week and I booked the tickets the cheapest airfare I could find was $430. Ouch!
No doubt, airfares are rising. The experts have been reporting this the past few weeks.
"Last year's super-cheap fares are gone," the WSJ reported.
"Major U.S. airlines are raising fares again, and the only question might be the size of the increase" according to Business Week. "This is the sixth broad fare increase the airlines have tried this year. They want higher fares to cover rising jet fuel prices."
"Delta, United, Continental, US Airways all raise airfares in response to higher oil prices" read the headline in a NY Daily Newsstory.
This is all bad news for travelers--and thankfully the WSJ article offers up some tips on how to track down deals in this changing climate.
--Be flexible. Seaney said he shaved $600 off a spring-break trip by shifting his family's usual travel days of Saturday to Friday to Tuesday to Saturday. Tuesdays and Wednesdays are the cheapest days to travel. The most expensive are Fridays and Sundays. Think too about red-eye flights versus prime-time morning or late afternoon. "Definitely there are some flights that have lower fares, but they're not the ones most people want to take," Hobica said.
--Use alternative airports. That doesn't just mean flying out of Midway Airport in Chicago rather than O'Hare or even going an hour plus out of the city to Milwaukee, Wisc., rather than O'Hare but looking even further out. Consider this: Virgin Airlines is offering a round-trip sale from Chicago Midway to Los Angeles for $198 until June 15. But you want to go to San Diego and a round-trip flight from Chicago will set you back some $500. For a family of four, renting a car from L.A. and driving the roughly 120 miles to San Diego could save upwards of $1,000.
--Don't book too early. If you're thinking about a summer trip to Europe, wait until April to start planning in earnest, Seaney said. If you're intent on taking a trip this fall, wait until July, even August to book flights and then plan on going in September or October, one of the slowest travel periods of the year. If flights aren't booked some 80% to 90% ahead of the season, airlines will be forced to cut the fares. "Demand is a fickle thing," Seaney said. "Are there three people behind you willing to pay what you're not willing to pay? That's the question and no one knows the answer except the airlines in real time."
Last Friday, famed pop star Cyndi Lauper entertained disgruntled travelers stranded at the Buenos Aires Airport by singing "Girls Just Want to Have Fun" and inviting everyone to join in. If only a super star showed up every time there were a delay.
If you were stranded in an airport, which music star would you want to show up and sing a song?
I'm a girl on the go. I travel for fun. For work. With my kids. With my husband. With my girlfriends. For me, traveling is not about luxury. It's about getting out there and experiencing new things. Best Western signed me up because, like me, they want to get people talking about travel. So let's talk! Tell me your travel tales, teach me your tips, and, when the airline loses your luggage, feel free to throw a temper tantrum. Believe me, I understand.
Got a travel question? Looking for an affordable hotel in New York City? Planning a family trip to the Caribbean and want to know which island is best for kids?
Send your questions to onthegowithamy@gmail.com for advice. Questions may be edited for clarity and space.
If you find a junonia shell on Sanibel Island you make the front page of the local newspaper. You'll also become headline news if you get your hands on a prized lion paw.
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