Sunday, August 30, 2009
Slide show: Barcelona
My husband and I were determined to not lose anything of value so we left our fancy camera at home and brought a crappy, old point-and-shoot that was on its last legs. The thing actually broke on about the fifth day of the trip.
Regardless, we were able to get a few good pictures--and a lot of bad ones. Here's a slide show featuring our photographs.
The joy of traveling without kids
On our first day in Barcelona, we strolled along the Ramblas, the city's famous walking street, to the Boqueria, a giant food market, where we feasted on a seafood plate piled high with mussels, squid, shrimp, and fish for lunch. We drank beers and cava (Spanish champagne) and took an hour and a half to finish our meal.Afterward, we followed one of the historical walking tours from a Frommer's guidebook and took in such sights as a hospital dating back to the Middle Ages, the city's opera house, and Palau Guell, Gaudi's first architectural creation.
And there's more: We walked miles and miles all over town, cruising by the fancy shops on the Passeig de Gracia, stopping to see Gaudi's Casa Batllo, and visiting the ancient Barri Gottic, a Gothic Cathedral. We broke for dinner at a hugely popular tapas restaurant, TapaƧ 24, where we stood in line for an hour at least, drinking beer throughout the entire wait. For dinner we ate more seafood: fried fish, grilled squid, raw tuna.
After dinner, we walked to La Sagrada Familia (pictured above), the Gaudi-designed church that has been under construction for over 100 years. Begun in 1882, it was the obsession of the architect's life, and the city continues to try to follow through with his wildly visionary plans. According to some estimates, it should be finished by the year 2022.
What time is it I asked my husband? "Oh midnight."
We hopped on the metro back to our hotel.
Want another drink before we go to bed? Sure. We sat in the bar for two hours, sipping sangria and talking.
At 2 a.m. we finally crashed in bed and when we woke the next day it was 3 p.m.
On our first night in Barcelona, we slept 13 hours.
My husband and I were in Barcelona for our 10-year anniversary and we traveled without our two children, ages 4 and 6. And though we both both missed them, when we woke that day at 3 p.m. we looked at one another and said, "We never could have an experience like this with kids."
We certainly never could have slept for 13 hours. We never could have sat at the seafood counter because our kids would have talked us into eating at the pizza stall instead. Our children are adventursome eaters but they have a long ways to go before they'll pop a tentacle into their mouths.
We never could have walked 10 miles in one day. Our kids who are actually really good walkers are capable of two, maybe three or four miles but certainly not that far in Spain's summer heat. It was at least 90 degrees, and my daughter would have complained relentlessly.
In fact, on that first day we might have visited only one sight, maybe La Sagrada Famillia because it's the one thing in Barcelona everyone should see. When you're standing beneath that church, it simply takes your breath away.
Now don't get me wrong. I love my kids, more than anything else in this world. And I love traveling with them and showing them the world. I do wish they could have seen that church, but I know they will get there some day. And this trip--my first vacation without my children--made me realize just how good it can be without the little ones.
Thirteen hours. We slept 13 hours!
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Barcelona: Where to eat in August
In August the locals of Barcelona take off. They close their businesses and leave town for cooler climes.
For tourists visiting in August, this can cause problems. Many of the popular restaurants are closed. When my husband I recently visited, I was particularly frustrated when I learned Inopia was closed. The tapas restaurant run by Alberto Adria, brother of the famed chef Ferran, may be the city's hottest spot, but not in August.
Never fear...many restaurants do remain open, and we easily found a great place to eat for all of the seven nights we were there.
The best resource for finding restaurants is BCNRestaurants.com, which allows you to specifically search for places that are open in August. Go to bcnrestaurantes.com, and click on "Open in August" in the Other Searches column on the right side of the page. Also, keep in mind that many of the restaurants open in August have limited hours and might only be open for dinner while they're open for lunch and dinner throughout the rest of the year.
Maribel's Guide to Barcelona is another great resource. It features a rundown of the city's best restaurants, from divey tapas joints to high-end establishments serving traditional Catalan cuisine, and specifies which ones are closed in August. The 75-page guide is available for free as a pdf.
So where did we eat? Here are four places that we loved and that are open in August:
CommerƧ 24--We weren't able to dine at the restaurant owned by the brother of Ferran Adria but we did try this place opened by one of his disciples. Carles AbellƔn worked at Adria's famed restaurant El Bulli two hours north and he brought what he learned back to Barcelona. We opted for the Festival Tasting menu, which features seven tapas courses. But these tapas aren't what you'll find in a tpyical Spanish restaurant. Traditional dishes are deconstructed to the essential ingredients and then frothed up into foams or consolidated into custards. The food is artful and each course is a materpiece. A filo dough straw is filled with creamy cheese, basil, and lime; a mushroom thinly cut into a long ribbon garnishes a vichissoise soup; mussels float in a broth that smells like a rose garden; poached cuttle fish rests on a bed of black rice.
TapaƧ 24--Salty, fried fish, the size of paperclips; grilled sweet and buttery squid; spiced, creamy lentils with chorizo; french fries with aioli and hot sauce--traditional Spanish tapas are the stars of the show here and everything is delicious and made with the freshest local ingredients. The atmosphere is casual, and you can easily get by in shorts and a T-shirt. This is the more casual, less-expensive restaurant of Carles AbellƔn who is also the head chef at CommerƧ 24 (above).
Bar Mut—This is a locals' spot (i.e., no sangria) where you go to enjoy a leisurely lunch of caƱas (small beers) and steamed mussels served in a fragrant broth of herbs, wine, and olive oil, perfect for slopping up with crusty bread. We spent two hours at the bar, drinking, eating, and chatting with our server who spoke perfect English and looked like Orlando Bloom.
Boqueria—On the south end of the Ramblas, this glorious turn-of-the-century food market, officially called the Mercat de Sant Josep, is a feast of the senses with some 330 stalls. We visited nearly every day for lunch. We could grab a crepe (pictured above), a slice of pizza, a skewer of grilled squid, or a sandwich made with Iberian ham and spend only $10 for two people. In August, about 75 percent of the stalls are open.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
10 things to pack on a 10-year anniversary trip
Here are 10 things I packed to help make our vacation memorable...
1) Wedding vows (I dug up the note cards that we read from at our wedding ceremony)
2) Love letters (I also found a bunch of old letters my husband and I wrote to each other when we were first dating; it'll be fun to re-read them)
3) A short dress (My daughter isn't around to tell me that I look silly, so why not?)
4) Candles (for turning a hotel room into a romantic retreat)
5) Cork screw (in case we want to pop a bottle of champagne in our hotel room)
6) Advil (for the next morning)
7) Romantic book (I packed My Life in France, the story of Julia Child moving to Paris with her husband; my husband and I will read it to one another every night)
8) Camera (to record the memories)
9) Journal (I figure it'll be fun to go back and read about our 10-year anniversary trip when we're on our 20-year anniversary trip)
10) A gift (I'm still working on this one. I need to get him something, but what?)
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
How to leave the kids behind
Surprisingly, both kids seem entirely comfortable with the idea. No tears...yet. In fact, every day my daughter asks me, When are you going to Spain? It seems as if she can hardly wait for me to step out the door. She's looking forward to all the ice cream cones her grandfather will buy her.
How can you help your kids feel comfortable with you leaving them behind? Here are some tips.
1) Give the kids something to look forward to. We return on a Friday and I have planned fun activities for the weekend when we return--and I have been telling my children all about our plans. I'm taking my daughter to see the musical Annie and we're getting pedicures. I'll be bringing my son to the hobby shop where he loves to check out the model airplanes.
2) Talk about the trip. It might seem easier to hide the fact that you're leaving but I think it's better to openly talk about the vacation mommy and daddy are taking alone. I showed my kids where we're going on a map and I told them about the places we'll visit. With my daughter, who understands time, we looked at the calendar so she has a clear sense of how long we're gone. I figure this also shows her that we're definitely coming back.
3) Leave them in good hands. My kids know their grandparents well. I know they'll get lots of love and attention (and candy and toys).
4) Plan activities for when you're away. I planned a few special playdates for the children with their closest friends. I also came up with a list of fun events—storytime at the library, sing-along at the rec center, live jazz at a bookstore—the grandparents and the children can attend while we're gone.
5) Buy souvenirs. I plan to pick up a souvenir for each of my kids. Before leaving I placed orders. My daughter wants a pair of shoes and I traced her foot on a piece of paper. My son wants a toy that you can only buy in Spain.
6) Tell them that you'll call. We plan to phone home at least once. The kids know this and it gives them something to look forward to.
7) Write a letter. I wrote a letter to each of my children reminding them that I love them and that I will be home soon. When they're feeling sad (if they ever do shed even a tear) their grandparents can read them the notes.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Barcelona: Where should we eat?
Eating, sleeping, drinking, eating, walking, eating, shopping, eating, sleeping, museum-going...This is what I plan to do on my upcoming trip to Barcelona.My husband and I are visiting the Spanish city for our 10-year anniversary and eating delicious food will be the focus of our trip.
We'll be visiting in August, and I have already discovered that many restaurants I hoped to try will be closed. Inopia, the tapas spot opened by the brother of famed El Bulli chef Ferran AdriĆ --Closed! I was practically crying when I read this.
But we have identified some that should have their doors open. We plan to enjoy steamed mussels and canas (small beers) at the casual lunch spot Bar Mut, drink whiskey sours at Gimlet, feast on paella at Barceloneta, and sample Catalan cuisine at Fonda Gaig.
Do you have any suggestions? We're still building our itinerary.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
More air travelers skipping the cab
A $40 cab ride into town, or a $20 shuttle bus? These days more air travelers are opting for the latter, according to a story in The New York Times.The article says an increase in transportation options, especially direct trains and shared ride services at big airports, is one reason for the trend.
Even though passenger traffic at La Guardia, Kennedy International and Newark Liberty International airports declined 9.4 percent in the first five months of this year compared with the same period in 2008, passenger traffic on the Kennedy and Newark AirTrains was 1.4 percent higher in the first five months of this year than the same period last year.
In a sagging economy when people are looking to save money this all makes sense. You'll pay $5 for the AirTrain JFK, and $45, plus toll and tip, for a one-way cab ride from Kennedy Airport to Midtown Manhattan. Even if you're a family of four, it still costs half as much to take public transit.
How do you typically get from the airport into town?
How to keep your kids (and your wallet) happy on a theme park vacation
1) Set boundaries.
To avoid conflict among your kids, let each child choose three to five attractions they don't want to miss. You can pick up a map of the park and circle all the chosen rides-and then develop a game plan for visiting them all.
2) Bring your own food.
Kids want something sweet? Let them decide on one treat but don't let them indulge until after they have filled up on healthy food. This way, you can avoid potential tummy aches, which don't mix well with rides that twirl and swirl. Since fruit and veggies are hard to find in parks, you might need to pack some of your own: mini carrots, boxed raisins, dried apricots, sliced oranges.
3) Beat the sun.
It's true that the early bird gets the worm: you'll find smaller crowds, shorter lines and cooler temperatures so definitely plan to arrive early. Have your sun block applied before entering the gates and be sure to reapply it as directed. Hats are always good to bring along as well to protect the little ones-just be sure to remove them before the rides!
4) Master long lines.
Waiting in line doesn't bring out the best in everyone. Your feet and back start to ache; the kids get thirsty. You need to prepare for this. A few ideas to consider: Give kids disposable cameras to take photos. Have plenty of water on hand and pack a few travel games (magnetic checkers, cat's cradle) for kids to pass the time.
5) Sleep nearby.
Sometimes the kids and you just need to relax and cool off. It's not ideal to trek back out to the parking lot, but as a parent, you know it happens. Be prepared and book a hotel nearby. Many hotels near parks provide transportation so you won't even have to worry about parking. And many hotels such as Best Westerns offer packages that include discount park tickets so you're saving all around.
6) Timing is everything.
It's no secret that parks are packed in the summer. If you're determined to go, your best bet for the slowest days is midweek, especially Wednesday and Thursday. If you go on a weekend, Sunday is best. If you're willing to postpone your theme park visit to another season, consider the timeframe between January and Presidents' Day, the day after Easter to Memorial Day, or between Labor Day and Columbus Day.
7) Save on tickets.
As mentioned in my fifth tip, when planning your trip, first look at special offers by hotels. This could save you time and energy. If there are none available, look on the theme park's Web site—many offer discounts online. Also, keep an eye out for special promotions or places where you can find coupons. Some parks run two-for-one admission coupons on soda cans and milk cartons. Most AAA and AARP memberships provide discounts, and reduced prices can be found at Costco.
If you're likely to go twice to the same park, it might be cheaper to buy a season pass than two one-day admission tickets. If your family can tolerate a late night, look for discounts for late-day admission. At Cedar Point Amusement Park in Sandusky, Ohio, the admission drops at 5 p.m. Lines for rides are often shorter at night, and you're out of the heat of the sun.
Some parks offer passes that allow you to skip long lines. At Disney, the free FastPass system issues timed tickets that bypass regular lines. Universal Orlando sells a limited number of Express Plus passes each day. At certain Six Flags parks, you can buy a Flash Pass to skip long lines.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Obamas to visit national parks
Next weekend (August 15-16), the national park system is waiving the entrance fee at over 100 of its parks. Thousands upon thousands of Americans will be heading into the great outdoors--even the Obama family. The President, his wife, and children willl visit Yellowstone, Grand Junction, and the Grand Canyon, according to CBS News.The trip is meant to "encourage all people…to go to and visit the national parks," White House press secretary Robert Gibbs said.
Anyone familiar with the parks the Obamas will be visiting? What should they see on their visit? Which trails should they hike?
Photo: AP Photo/Haraz N. Ghanbari
Monday, August 3, 2009
Book Thanksgiving travel NOW!

Want to bring the kids to meet their uncle Archie in New York this Thanksgiving? Then get online and start making your plans NOW!
Thanksgiving is the most popular time to travel and even in this sagging economy flights and rooms are going fast.
I know this because I'm in the midst of booking flights to Charelston, S.C., so our family can eat turkey with our cousins. Coming from the California Bay Area, our cheapest bet is to take Southwest Airlines to Jacksonville, Fl., and then drive four hours to Charleston, which I don't mind because we can spend a night in Savannah, Ga., a place I have always wanted to visit.
But the online-only cheap fares available through Southwest are going fast and already dates and times are limited. And if you want to use frequent-flier miles, your options are more limited due to black-out dates. We have a voucher for a free flight, so we have to fly out several days before the holiday and return a few days after in order to use it.
Exclusive airline deals: A real reason to join Twitter
United Airlines and JetBlue are now offering Twitter users first dibs on certain discounted fares. If you haven't already signed up for a Twitter account this might be a reason to do so.According to a story in USA Today, the airlines are "using the uber-trendy form of messaging to quickly connect with customers and fill seats on flights that might otherwise take off less than full."
JetBlue posted its first "Cheep" on July 6, a $9 one-way trip from JFK to Nantucket. Since then the carrier has generally notified Twitterers about sales on Mondays, giving them about eight hours — or as long as there are available seats — to book a trip for that or the following weekend.
"By promoting the Cheeps through Twitter, we give the already spontaneous audience of Twitter users a chance to grab great last-minute fares," says JetBlue spokesman Morgan Johnston.
United's Twitter-only fares, also known as "twares," started in May. The airline's sales tweets can come at any time for a flight leaving on any day, and fliers have had to pounce quickly because the offers are usually available for only one to two hours.
"Twares are all about surprising our customers with low fares for a very, very limited time," says Robin Urbanski, a United spokeswoman. And, she says, they "sell extremely fast because the prices are unbeatable."
Family travel on $150 a day
Who can afford to take their kids on vacation in a sagging economy?
This summer my husband, two kids, and I went on a 17-day road trip and we gave ourselves a budget of $150 a day--a total of $2,550--to cover gas, food, and lodging. We drove the length of the Mississippi River from the headwaters at Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota to the mouth in southern Louisiana, and we stayed in Best Western hotels along the way.
So, did we meet our goal? Our final total was $2,511. We were $39 under budget. But in actuality we probably came out just on target because I didn't include those few beers we drank in Memphis on my husband's birthday and I forgot to add the $6 we spent on laundry to the grand total.
How did we do it? We stuck to budget by following the rules below:
Water only. No iced tea, no apple juice, no beers, no way! At restaurants we were allowed to order water only.
Split entrees. We always started by ordering one entree for two adults and one children's meal for two kids. If we ate everything and were still hungry, we ordered more. We never wasted food.
Carry refillable water bottles. A family of four can easily spend $20 a day buying water in plastic bottles. We purchased eco-friendly Klean Kanteens, which don't leach chemicals, toxins, or funky flavors. We refilled them at hotels, restaurants, and public restrooms.
Pack snacks. We made a few grocery store runs along the way and stocked the car with dried fruit, crackers, salami, cheese, and yogurt. Sometimes we raided the snack stash for lunch.
No souvenirs over $1. We avoided stores or else we might have been tempted to buy that $40 snow globe. We kept our souvenir purchases under one dollar and collected pressed pennies (51 cents each) along the route.
Ditch the gas guzzler. Our ride was a Mercury Mariner hybrid that got 30 to 32 miles to the gallon. We figure we saved $120 by driving a fuel efficient car.
Go for hotel freebies. We bedded down at Best Westerns that offer extra value: free breakfast, Wi-Fi, and parking. We stayed in only one hotel that didn't provide breakfast, and all of our hotels were under $100 except in New Orleans where we used rewards points for a free night. It pays to be loyal to a single chain. (Be sure to take advantage of Best Western's summer promotion; stay two separate nights and get one free.)
Dive into the hotel pool. Every hotel we stayed in had a swimming pool, which offered free entertainment for the kids.
Skip admission. We often checked out a place from the outside but didn't pay to go inside. Rather than spending $30 for our family to ride the tram to the top of the Arch, we played a game of tag underneath it. Sometimes we paid for only one adult to take both kids into a museum.
Find free fun. We tracked down farmer's markets, parades, festivals, public parks.
Load your iPhone with apps. We used CheapGas to pinpoint the lowest priced gas stations and AAA Discounts to alert us of money-saving opportunities. You can download both applications for free on iTunes.
What tips and tricks do you have for traveling with kids on the cheap?



